First of all, let’s get the confusing part out of the way. Usually, when people say they are going to Angkor Wat, they mean they are going to a huge complex of temples in and around the ancient city of Angkor. One of which is called Angkor Wat.
How many days is enough to spend in Angkor Wat?
To visit this huge complex you can choose a 1,3, or 7-day pass ($37,$62,$72 – last checked Feb 2024).
Being massive history geeks, but on a backpacker’s budget we were so torn about which pass to choose!
I opted for the 3, and Joe opted for a one-day pass (and then regretted it! You’ll see why..)
Day 1
If you go for a 2 or 3-day pass it means you can visit the further out temples (read less busy!).
I went to Kbal Spean which is just over an hours tuk-tuk ride away from Siem Reap, best paired with a trip out to Bantaey Srei. At Kbal Spean, there are carvings to discover underwater, in the riverbed.
This river was an important water source for the ancient capital, so they carved the river bed, making the water which flowed over them, and down into the city, sacred.
TIP : low on numbers? Put up a note in the hostel with your number to split a tuk-tuk to the further out temples. I did this and it worked out much cheaper and I had good company too – win win! Sidenote – I was always amazed, and relieved in Cambodia when getting a tuk-tuk, because of the honesty of the drivers. They always quoted the price we knew it should be from swatting up on guidebooks and blogs. This was novel to us, having been in other Asian countries, constantly being frustrated at being ripped off!
It was a 45-minute hike up, and it was just us, and a couple of others there! Not at all like some of the more well-known temples (Ta Promh, I’m looking at you!). I felt like a real-life explorer because we had to work to find the carvings, unlike being directed to where they were by following all the selfie sticks.
We’d been up there for a while getting our Indiana Jones on when we were surprised to see our tuk-tuk driver arrive at the top of the hike. He had his phone out excitedly ready to take pictures, and looked so disappointed when he saw we were on our way back down.
It became clear he actually hadn’t seen this place before, so we said we should all go back up together to show him. At first, he politely insisted we go back down so he could take us to our next stop, but we took him to see the waterfall and carvings.
We all had a great time, and it absolutely poured down, monsoon style as we climbed back up the rocks, adding to the adventure. It was one of those really great moments of a trip that you look back on with a full heart.
Day 2
Is it worth getting a guide when visiting Angkor Wat?
The following day we did the small circuit sunrise guided tour, which includes Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, Bayon, and Ta Promh. Joe joined me on this day with his day pass.
It was a cloudy morning because it was rainy season, so sunrise wasn’t the colourful one you see plastered all over Instagram. It was still beautiful though, and the better option to avoid the blistering heat!
Our guide Sarak, also took us in a different order to other tours to avoid the crowds. He even managed to find us one quiet spot in Ta Promh (The ‘Tomb Raider temple’..), making him some kind of wizard.
I’d definitely recommend a guided tour, so you actually understand what you’re looking at. There is so much symbolism in the carvings, that I would have missed without our guide. Many people complain of being ‘templed out’, but I think this because they see them solely as buildings, so they all get a bit samey.
With Sarak’s stories, you could feel the prominence and almost picture ancient kings standing before their people on platforms in the city square. A guide really pumps life into the temples, telling you about the everyday lives of the Khmer people 1000 years ago. The people responsible for building these monumental temples.
Don’t miss the entire wall of the Bayon temple, which is dedicated to carvings of everyday life, in the 12th century.
We booked an 8-hour tour of the key temples starting at sunrise (under $20 each!) which I’d definitely recommend, you can find more details, or book here.
Later me and Joe took a tuk-tuk back to visit Preah Kahn, despite being knackered. I agreed to go, trying to help Joe make the most of his day pass (remember this for the next part- I certainly will!). This was a much quieter temple and was the jungle temple experience we both wanted.
Day 3
I had rented a bike ($3!), and got up early to avoid the heat, to cycle back to the site to see any last bits I wanted to catch or explore further (like I said it is HUGE!)
TIP :- If you’re renting a bike and want to set off early (which is a good idea because it gets HOT), make sure you rent the night before, as most of the rental places don’t open until 7am, in low season!
Joe decided to come with me last minute because he loved the day before so much. So we had to try to find him a bike before 7am (a challenge!). We then had to cycle to the ticket office first, and he had to buy another day pass.
Of course, this cost more than if he had bought a 3-day pass in the first place, and he got one less day! Learn from his lessons people! Nonetheless, we had a brilliant time cycling through the ruins.
It is definitely doable to cycle the small circuit. We are no athletes and didn’t struggle. The roads are flat, just stay hydrated!
If you only have a one-day pass, I’m not sure I’d recommend cycling it unless you don’t mind looking a sweaty mess in all your photos. We absolutely loved the freedom the bikes brought us and had an amazing day!
The Angkor temples were fascinating, and a good way to end our month in Cambodia. They are just a tiny part of what this incredible country has to offer; from an insight into their dark past in Phnom Penh to paradise island getaways, to pepper (who’d have thought it!) in Kampot. Not to mention the FOOD, and the spirit of the wonderful people there, Cambodia we will be back!
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